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WHY ROME?
This magical trip we planned back in January, after brainstorming for months, where we should go for my big birthday. We knew that we wanted to go to Europe, since this would be our first time leaving the kids. We decided before we had children that we would like to wait until they were older to take them.
As I mentioned, almost daily in my Instagram stories while in Rome, I lived there and worked at the Embassy. The story is much longer and not the point of this post, but I re-met my now husband the week before I left to live in Rome, we had a week of magical dates and then I left. He was a friend of my brother’s and I knew him from high school, so I knew that I would see him again. When I got to Italy, we continued to email and call once every couple of weeks {pre iPhone era! I had to get an expensive calling card and walk to a payphone that would take the calling card that I got to call the US.} So I felt like I fell in love with my now husband in Rome, but have never been there with him. {Ironically enough, we ran into him and his family during a family trip to Venice in high school.}
So we picked Rome! We talked about London {my favorite}, Windsor {I’m still on a Royal Wedding high}, Scotland {can you tell I love the UK?}. Yet, we have been to London recently together and wanted to go on an adventure, some place we’ve never gone to together, somewhere with great food and lots to do.
Everyone, when we told them where we were going, would question, “Just Rome???” Yes! Just Rome! We’ve both been lucky enough to go to Europe and Italy countless times, and to Rome many times before, but not in years. We were very excited to get to explore the city extensively together. Rome is a large city, with so many things to do and see, so many amazing restaurants to try and streets to explore. My husband didn’t want to be moving hotels a bunch of times; his request was to unpack once. We were going to have an adult vacation: sleep in, workout together, eat too much, drink everything, all the things that are difficult to do with a child friendly vacation.
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While, I am not judging if you decide take your children to Europe before they can appreciate the history, we decided this was best for our family. I am extremely selfish when I go to Europe and I want to eat and drinks all the things, go the museums and soak up the culture. Not have to worry about finding playgrounds, battle toddler jet lag, and not do what I want to do.
Plus, this was a special trip for a big birthday and the first time we’ve been away from both kids for more than two nights. The first time we left for three days, we went to New York for the Coldplay concert, but I was pregnant with Leo and we were only gone for two nights.
So, sorry for the long intro. Here is what you came for:
Where to Go in Rome
TIP: If you are unsure of your Italian, call your hotel and ask for the concierge to call you when they can chat about your trip. Discuss what you want to get out of your stay in Rome and to ask for the restaurants below that strike your fancy
The BEST Tour Guide
email Guiliano at giulianocatapano82@gmail.com
We was THE. BEST. About our age and an anthropologist, he gave us the best tour of the Colosseum and Forum. I wish we had had him for our Vatican tour. The private tour might seem bougie or unnecessary but I would say if you are going to go all the way to Europe and not get a private guide, that is the waste of time/ money. They get you to the front of the line, can cater the tour to your interests and you can ask all the questions you want. We had the best day with Guiliano and his tour of the area was the best ever. Tourists go to Rome and the Colosseum to hear about Julius Ceseasr and the gladiators, but the building has so so much more history than that, that was just a blip on the radar of this iconic building. I truly couldnt recommend our guide more. Tell him Hunter & Fernando from San Diego, Califorian sent you! Also, ask him for restaurant and wine bar recommendations. He gave us a bunch that didn’t make the post, but his favorite wine bar in the city is below.
Hotel
I loved everything about this hotel: the rooms were amazing, the staff so helpful and there are two great bars in the hotel, one in the lobby and one on the roof, and the restaurant is really good. We knew that it was known for it’s dinner, but we had so many other places that we wanted to go, that we never made it to dinner in our hotel. The concierge was beyond helpful with everything and I would 1,000% stay here again.
FOOD
Breakfast
When you travel in Europe, always ask if breakfast is included. Sometimes continental is, but only if you know to ask. This is a great way to get a yummy, traditional breakfast in your belly for energy for seeing the city and to be full until the traditional European later lunch {closer to 2pm.} I also always love to check out the local flairs, and get a croissant and cappaccino at any and all local, around the corner spots. In Italy, I live for the << bicchiere di such d’arancia>> {glass of orange juice}, the kind that is hand squeezed and served with a spoon to stir. I have no idea where I picked that up, but whenever I saw a bar or restaurant that had a machine, I would order it.
LUNCH
Our first day in Italy, we went to ARMANDO AL PANTHEON. It is a very traditional Italian local crowd at lunch, and very touristy at dinner. You will need a reservation well in advance for lunch.
TARTUFI & FRIENDS the entire menu is truffles. I recommend for lunch versus dinner, as the center of town near tends to quiet down as the tourists tend to be on an earlier schedule than the Italians. We didn’t use a reservation.
ROSCIOLI : the best dish I’ve ever had in my life was for lunch here. Get the Bufala with the fresh shave French white truffles on top. They bring out the truffle, show you, weight it to get a starting point, and begin to shave it over your dish. They stop a couple of shaves in so you can gauge how much your dish is going to cost {I promise, it is worth every Euro}. Then you can tell them to stop or keep going.
This restaurant is set in a traditional deli, yet with nice tables taking up the entire space. Ask to be sat right up front, or down in the wine cellar. {we sat in the later}.
Don’t go to Ginger, especially if you are from California. It is local favorite, has lines out the door, including a long wait for breakfast and lunch. It is very california style food and we were not impressed with the service or food. The food was great, but I could have made it myself or ordered it from any restaurant within a 10 mile drive from my house in San Diego.
DINNER
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By far, the best meal of the trip was at RETROBOTTEGA, ask to sit by the kitchen, if you are a group of 4 or less and go for dinner and do the wine pairing meal. This restaurant is very “city” vibe, no need to dress up, but do look smart {like not so much book smart, but more of the British version of looking pulled together. I wore jeans and a blazer}. The wines were the whim of the waiter and it was truly one of the best meals of my life, better than the French Laundry.
EMMA was the best pizza of the trip, and if you ask any locals, they will tell you this or another option are the best pizza in the city. I got a margarita pizza and asked for fresh <<rucola >> on top {arugula}. If you have any sort of sensitivity to caffeine, don’t get the tiramisu for dessert after dinner. I am not a huge fan, but this was amazing, but oh so strong. If you are jet lagged, get the tiramisu.
IL PAGLIACCIO was our fanciest meal, at the Michelen star restaurant. It was a total experience and you never hear of people going to Italy and having a tasting menu with eel in a apricot sauce. The menu is secretive and you are fed at the whim of the chef. Tell them any dietary restrictions: we told them we eat fish, but no meat or poultry. Be ready for an experience! Eating Michelen always is! Many will argue that the experience, and what you pay for when you eat at a Michelen star rated restaurant is the service. Use this opportunity to ask questions about wines, food sourcing or anything else that you are interested in when you dine. Our waiter talked to us endlessly about wine and some things he discussed are things that will stick with me when I look to select wine in the future from Sicily. {where he was from and obviously more passionate about.}
LIFE was a traditional Italian restaurant that was recommended to us by our concierge and we stopped here straight from walking around the city, just wanting some pasta and wine.
DRINKS:
My favorite spot for a fun cocktail was at CAFFE PROPOGANDA, near the Colosseum. They have great wines and craft cocktails. If you are a wine drinker, like me, don’t order what you know, ask for recommendations. Ask for Italian wines, and give them your preferences, dry, not sweet, etc. The wines we had on our trip were unreal and had me realizing, that while California wines are great and all, the Italian wines can vary so much due to the topography of the land and are so much lighter and yummier.
Ask your concierge or the bartender at your hotel to get you a reservation at the Speak Easy The Jerry Thompson Project. I am probably breaking all the rule of a speakeasy, but it was a fun experience and great cocktails. They have no online presence, obviously, but we had a very fun night here, complete with hidden doorways, passwords and alleyway entrances.
For wine after the Colosseum or {do you need a reason? especially on vacation???} is VINANDO, a recommendation from our guide, Guiliano. A great selection of wines, again, ask for Italian and try something new! If you love it, ask to take a picture of the label. I did this with every single wine and not one person every hassled me when I asked them.
ALSO, check out the shop section of that I packed for Rome.
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ADDRESSES
The First Roma Arte : Via del Vantaggio, 14, 00186, Roma, Italy
Armando al Pantheon : Salita dei Crescenzi, 31, 00186, Roma, Italy
Tartufi & Friends: Via Borgognona 4/E, 00187, Roma, Italy
Roscioli: Via dei Giubbonari, 21/22, 00186, Roma, Italy
Retrobottega: Via della Stelletta, 4, 00186, Roma, Italy
Emma: Via del Monte della Farina, 28 , 00186, Roma Italy
Il Pagliaccio: Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 129/a, 00186, Roma Italy
Life: Via della Vite, 28, 00187, Roma Italy
Caffe Propoganda: Via Claudia, 15, 00184, Roma Italy
Vinando: Piazza Margana, 23, 00186, Roma Italy

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